Finding the traditional British pub

What is a traditional British pub?
Pubs then and now
Irish pubs and pub tours
Finding a traditional pub
   City and town pubs
   Village and country pubs
   Pubs on main roads
   Names and buildings
   Good food and fine ales?
   Local knowledge
Guide books
Pub and beer holidays

What is a traditional British pub?
A traditional British pub is a whole mixture of elements. Things like traditional local beers, fine old buildings, attractive gardens, appropriate décor, friendly landlords and good food all play a part. But one of the most important elements is the right atmosphere. Not all pubs will get all of the elements right, city pubs often lack gardens, not all pubs do food and sometimes the décor will not do justice to the welcome you will get from the staff. Each one is different and there isn't a strict formula, a good traditional pub will have its own individual charm and that's much of the joy in hunting them out!

Pubs then and now
Pubs (short for 'public house' if you are one of the aforementioned visitors) are as British as cricket and cream teas. Their origins go back to the taverns and inns set up to cater for the needs of travellers on the old toll routes of Britain. The pub will often be one of the oldest buildings in a town or village and many still retain their old world charm and character.

Once upon a time most pubs were 'freehold' – owned by the licensee who ran them, who was then free to select any beers he wished and to serve them in surroundings of his choice. Then the breweries started to take over the pubs, tying the publican/manager to that breweries own beers and often dictating standards and styles of presentation. To be fair much of this was good and many a tatty run down pub has been given a new lease of life; and if you liked that breweries beer then all the better. These, brewery owned, 'tied' pubs have now reduced in number and now only account for about 15% of the market.

Sadly, the trend these days is towards 'themed' pubs and many are being or given a corporate make over by the brewery or multi national company that owns them. Such pubs are often stripped of any unique features and filled with a carefully crafted 'image' decided upon by the marketing department. Traditional brews from small local breweries are dropped in favour of the bottled beers and alcopops seen on television and cinema screens the World over. Original home cooked food is replaced by a standardised menu that is, at worst, closer to a burger bar than good British pub fare.

A very large percentage of British pubs are now owned by one of five multi national companies, of which the Japanese bank Nomura is the largest. There are also a number of smaller independent pub chains on the scene. The J D Wetherspoon chain, for example, has earned a reputation for converting a wide range of unlikely buildings such as churches, car showrooms and cinemas, into pubs. Quirky? Yes. Attractive? Almost always. Worth a visit? Yes, but don't be fooled into thinking this is a traditional public house. Another example, Vintage Inns, comes closer to a traditional pub feel. At least their interiors are done with real old furniture, and the food menus are chalked up on boards by hand – even if it is the same menu throughout the chain! But the choice of beers is restricted and their main aim appears to be selling food, so there is rarely a cosy lounge area or traditional bar where you can play darts or just sit and enjoy a leisurely pint.

Irish pubs and pub tours
As for the many Irish theme pubs that are springing up throughout the country (and in many places in Europe too!), although they do give a bit of the feel of traditional Irish pubs, we think Irish pubs are best done by the Irish – in Ireland. There are several holiday companies offering Irish pub tours so you have no excuse for not getting the real experience.

Finding a traditional pub
Certain general rules apply, but remember these are generalisations so there will also be exceptions.

City and town pubs
Aim for the older parts of town, near markets, docks and watersides. Pubs in business and shopping areas often don't open at night, but are sometimes worth a lunchtime visit. Avoid large city centre pubs, these tend to be aimed at the youth market and are frequently 'bars' with loud music and bottled beers rather than real pubs. Traditional style pubs can still be found in city centres, but they are becoming harder to find, 'The Old Green Tree' in Bath, Somerset is an example of such a gem.

Village and country pubs
Older villages frequently have excellent traditional pubs. Often the pub will be near the church so look out for names like 'The Bell' and 'The Old Clock Tower'. There are some very good pubs tucked away in rural locations too, although – of necessity – these are often aimed more towards the food/restaurant side of the business these days. You may stumble across some of these if you are out driving or walking in the countryside, but if you really want to find the good ones ask the locals or get the guide books! If you enjoy a hike in the countryside then there are some excellent books that combine walking/hiking and good pubs. See our recommendations.

Pubs on main roads
Pubs on main thoroughfares have often lost their traditional character in an effort to capture passing trade from customers wanting quick food, convenience or amenities such as children's play areas or wide screen TV's. In order to fill the building, large pubs, wherever they are located, have often had to go this way too.

Names and buildings
Look at the age of the building, traditional pubs tend to be in traditional buildings many of which have served the same purpose for centuries. Also look at the pub name, 'The Kings Arms' (referring to the royal coat of arms) is much more promising than 'The Duck and Beetroot' (a 'clever', trendy combination of unlikely elements). A traditional, individual pub sign is something to look out for too.

Good food and fine ales?
Almost all pubs have signs declaring that good food, fine wines and traditional beers are available, so this is no real measure. If the sign is obviously ready printed in corporate colours then you are probably looking at a theme pub of one sort or another, if it's lovingly chalked up on a board or individually sign painted then you are possibly on to a better thing.

The food menu can be a good way to judge if a pub is likely to be traditional in character. Watch out for mass produced microwaveable menus and look instead for British dishes like Steak and Ale pie, Hot Pot and traditional roasts, or for individual dishes that have obviously been created by an in-house chef rather than imported from the cash and carry.

And if the beers the thing, then look out for pubs offering local brews and ask the bar staff what they would recommend. Even in tied pubs you will often now find 'guest beers' (often a local beer served for a limited period) that are well worth investigation. Look out for some of the 'micro-brewery' pubs too, we'd recommend the 'Riverhead Brewery Tap' in Marsden, West Yorkshire where you will find a range of seven different traditional ales each named after one the local reservoirs and all brewed on the premises. Or perhaps 'The Drunken Duck' in Ambleside, Cumbria, which brews its own beer and offers some excellent food and accommodation into the bargain. If you have not heard of CAMRA (the Campaign for Real Ale) then we'd recommend a visit to their web site for more information.

It's not just beers either, there are a wide range of local ciders to try in many parts of the country and further north there is the Whisky of course – but that's the subject of another article!

Local knowledge
Local knowledge is probably one of the best ways of locating a traditional pub, so ask the locals! Be you visiting Britain from overseas, or British and just visiting a new area of the country, we'd recommend asking the hotel staff, your guesthouse landlord, campsite manager and the local tourist information office staff where they would 'go for a pint'.

Guide books
There are a few excellent books we would like to recommend:

The Good Pub Guide
With a new edition produced every year, this is almost the Bible for the lover of the traditional pub! Pubs in the main listing are visited and reviewed anonymously by the authors. The listings comment on the beers, the food the décor, the atmosphere and the location. They tell you if accommodation is available and offer a rough menu and price guide. The book is divided into counties and is very easy follow. There is also a 'lucky dip' section within each area, listing pubs recommended by readers but not, as yet, reviewed by the authors. Lists over 5,000 pubs.
Buy on-line from these links and save 20% – 30% on the list price.
Amazon.co.uk: The Good Pub Guide Amazon.com: The Good Pub Guide

Pubs and Bars Guide
If your travels are taking you no further than the capital then we would recommend this guide by Time Out who also publish the well respected weekly Time Out listing magazine for London – so they should know. The guide takes you through London area by area, detailing the most popular or noteworthy locations. There are literally thousands of pubs in this guide and at the end of the day it offers good value for money; being roughly the price of two pints of trendy lager!
Amazon.co.uk: Pubs and Bars Guide Amazon.com: not available

The Inn Way Series
This excellent series of books offer not just fine walks and traditional pubs but unique insights into the areas they describe. Detailed maps and practical information about accommodation, services and public transport combine with local history, geology, and wildlife information.

The Inn Way to Black Sheep Pubs
Combine your walking and drinking! Award-winning writer Mark Reid introduces us to some of his favourite walks in the beautiful Yorkshire Dales calling at traditional pubs along the way. Black Sheep is a real ale brewed in the Yorkshire Dales and this book offers 20 excellent circular walks, calling at traditional pubs that serve Black Sheep ales.
Amazon.co.uk: The Inn Way to Black Sheep Pubs Amazon.com: not available

And for some longer pub walks, books by the same author:

The Inn Way to the English Lake District
Seven days, 90 miles and 44 pubs! This book is a must for anyone who enjoys the beauty of the Lake District and traditional Lakeland pubs.
Amazon.co.uk: The Inn Way to the English Lake District Amazon.com: not available

The Inn Way to the Yorkshire Dales
In a similar vein, this book offers us a 76-mile circular walk around the Yorkshire Dales, taking in some fine scenery and some equally fine ales on route.
Amazon.co.uk: The Inn Way to the Yorkshire Dales Amazon.com: not available

The Inn Way to the North York Moors
The Inn Way to the North York Moors takes the reader on an 89-mile circular tour of the North York Moors National Park along a carefully devised route divided into six easy-to-follow stages, with, of course, details of the traditional, old-fashioned inns on route.
Amazon.co.uk: The Inn Way to the North York Moors Amazon.com: not available

Pub and Beer holidays
If you want to take it really seriously then why not investigate the entries in our beer and pub tours section. There are several companies offering Irish pub tours and holidays and a few with trips in the UK too. If you are from the USA several companies run trips to Ireland and the UK, originating in the States.

Why not combine the pub visits with some other activity? Bute Sailing School offers a trip that combines sailing and Guinness in Ireland and there are a couple of companies (Somerset Cycling and Peak-to-pub Bicycling Tours) offering combined cycling and pubs tours. And finally if you are up in Scotland can we suggest a stay at Traquair, a Scottish castle with its own brewery!

Links to all these trips can be found in our beers and pub tours page. Cheers!