If you are looking for somewhere different to trek or walk then why not consider the mountains of Transylvania in Romania.

For many, a mention of Transylvania conjures up images of Gothic castles, sinister moonlit skies, bats, wolves and, of course, Dracula. A visit to 'Dracula's Castle' in Bran is on the itinerary of most package tours to Romania, but the dramatic grandeur of the Transylvanian Alps is the attraction that should not be missed. This article was written while doing a 'recce' for one of the tours run by Romanian Horizons and gives a taste of the splendor of the mountains and the warmth of the people.

If they could see me now:
a short hike in the Transylvanian Alps of Romania

Our adventure started earlier in the day, as we encouraged Bogdan's car to climb gently into the twilight zone of mountain peaks and clouds, leaving the Transylvanian plain dwindling below. Arriving at the Bulea Lac, just below the Fagaras ridge, I was perturbed to find the Cabana where we had planned to stay the night has burnt down. Bogdan, friend and guide, is not worried. 'Electricity makes fire here. Is no problem, we can try the guest house, and if not the Salvamont hut'. I fleetingly wonder if the night will end in a funeral pire below the dramatic Fagaras ridge, and glance, without enthusiasm, at the back seat of the car.

It's late July and the guest house is full, but somewhere in the fog surrounding us, and beyond the snow field, was the Salvamont hut. It was comforting to know the hut was without electricity, but less comforting to cross the snow field. This was the remains of an avalanche, and the natural grave of a climber who had been caught in it's turmoil. We tentatively crossed the slippery surface, following a well worn track into the gloom, and emerged into rocks at the other side. It took us ten minutes of probing the gloom to find the hut, a large red cross painted on it's wall marking the place and calling us in.

The building is of thick stone walls and roughly decorated. The warmth inside comes from a wood fired ceramic stove in the corner, traditional heating in Romania. A mountain rescuer, greets us 'Bunea seara'. My Romanian can't cope as Bogdan flows into pleasantries, and 'mountain speak' to establish his credentials. We are warmly welcomed and other guests make space around the table, pouring us steaming mugs of ceai. Tea in Romania is served black with sugar, and its sweet, strong flavour is wonderful when it's cold and dark outside.

We are shown upstairs to the sleeping quarters. The loft has been fitted with a large bunk bed, with enough space for twelve people to lie next to each other on each level, more if the occupants girths permit. I mark out a place at one end with pillow and blankets, wary of being trapped in the middle. Bogdan, takes one look and decides to use his small tent on the mountain side. I hope for slumber companions who use soap and water, but the chance of that tonight is slim, as the mountain-side offers better facilities than those of the hut.

Red sunlight tentatively lightens the sky. The shadows of clouds and pointed peaks fall on the far side of the bowl in which we rest. 'Night', the twilight gloom, has been quickly replaced by day, and the sight tempts us to grab small packs and head up to the ridge crest. We take the short cut on the steep rocky slope around the back of the lake. It's hard and steep and we climb rapidly in the fading light. Apprehension is lost in the concentration required, one step following the next, as we chase the last rays of the sun. Towards the top the path is lost in shadows, but it's flatter here and firm under foot. We arrive suddenly. The sun has already fallen, the horizon glows with red and orange. Jagged peaks stand proudly, dark with deep orange silhouettes. Far, far below is the Transylvania plain, formless, a shimmering pool of orange light somewhere beyond reach. Time passes in wonder, it's a growing awareness of cold which reminds us it's time to descend.

Rocks slide away under our feet, but the mountain is a friend for now and allows us to return calmly to our resting place. The hut is full but most people have already made their way to bed. More ceai quickly appears, and Bogdan passes around Tuica (a strong clear plum brandy), 'to help you sleep and ignore the things which bite' he chuckles. I struggle up the stairs to bed and take my place amongst the other bodies. Vivid dreams bring images of friends and family; 'if they could see me now!'

Links:
For more information about tours run by Romanian Horizons contact their booking agent: Footloose: http://www.footlooseadventure.co.uk